Patio & Paving Guides

Why your choice of patio material matters more than you think

A patio is one of the most used parts of your garden, and one of the most permanent. Get it right and you will have a space you actually want to spend time in - somewhere to have a coffee in the morning, eat outside with the family, or simply look out on from the kitchen. Get it wrong and you will be living with slippery, stained, sunken or weed-choked paving for years before you can afford to redo it.

The good news is that making the right call is not complicated once you understand your options. This guide breaks down everything that matters: materials, costs, installation quality, maintenance, and what questions to ask any contractor before they start work.

The four main patio materials compared

Most Surrey homeowners are choosing between four options. Here is what you need to know about each:

Porcelain

Porcelain paving is the most popular choice in Surrey right now, and for good reason. It is exceptionally hard-wearing, frost-resistant, virtually maintenance-free and available in a wide range of finishes from wood-effect to riven stone. Because it is non-porous, it does not stain, moss up or need annual sealing.

The downside is cost: porcelain is typically 20-35% more expensive than natural stone for the same area. It also needs an experienced installer - porcelain must be laid on a full mortar bed (not a dry mix) and requires specific adhesives and grout. A poor installation will result in hollow spots and cracked tiles within a year or two.

Best for: Low-maintenance households, modern garden styles, anyone who wants it to look good in ten years with minimal effort.

Sandstone

Natural sandstone gives gardens a warm, traditional look that porcelain cannot quite replicate. Indian sandstone is the most common choice - it comes in buff, autumn brown, mint and silver grey - and is significantly cheaper than porcelain when buying the stone itself.

The trade-off is maintenance. Sandstone is porous, so it needs sealing every two to three years to prevent staining and keep moss and algae at bay. In shaded areas or on north-facing patios, it can become slippery if not sealed. When it is well-maintained though, it looks genuinely beautiful and improves with age.

Best for: Traditional and cottage-style gardens, homeowners who do not mind occasional maintenance, properties where the warmth of natural stone suits the house.

Limestone

Limestone is a step up from sandstone in terms of appearance and durability, and is available in larger-format slabs that give a more contemporary feel. It tends to be lighter in colour - creams, silvers and pale greys - and has a refined look well-suited to more formal garden designs.

Like sandstone it needs sealing, but it is denser and less porous so less prone to staining. It is also typically more expensive than sandstone but less than the premium porcelain ranges.

Best for: More formal or contemporary garden settings where you want the natural stone look but a cleaner, more uniform appearance.

Block paving

Block paving is more commonly used for driveways but it works well for patios too, particularly in smaller gardens or as an edging detail. The individual units make it flexible - you can create patterns (herringbone, stretcher bond, circular) and repairs are straightforward because individual blocks can be lifted and replaced.

The main consideration for patios is jointing. Block paved patios need properly compacted sub-base and kiln-dried sand joints that are re-sanded every few years to prevent weeds establishing.

Best for: Matching an existing block paved driveway, smaller courtyard spaces, where flexibility and repairability matter.

What a proper patio installation actually involves

This is where many homeowners get caught out. The difference between a patio that lasts 20 years and one that sinks, cracks or heaves after two winters is almost entirely in the groundwork - which you cannot see once the job is done.

A correctly installed patio involves:

• Excavation to the right depth - typically 150-200mm depending on the existing ground conditions and the finish material chosen.
• A compacted MOT Type 1 sub-base - crushed stone laid and compacted in layers. This is what gives the patio its structural stability. Skipping this step, or using inadequate depth, is the number one cause of sinking and movement.
• A full mortar bed - not dry mix, not spot bedding. Every stone should be fully supported underneath. Hollow spots crack under foot traffic and heavy furniture.
• Correct falls - a minimum 1:80 gradient away from the house is standard. This keeps rainwater moving off the surface and away from your foundations.
• Proper pointing - the joints between slabs need to be filled fully, particularly for natural stone where mortar pointing prevents movement and weed ingress.

When you get quotes for a patio, ask what sub-base depth they are using. If they cannot tell you, or give a vague answer, walk away.

How much does a patio cost in Surrey?

Patio prices in Surrey vary based on size, material, ground conditions and specification. As a rough guide:

These figures include material, labour, sub-base preparation and waste removal. They do not account for extras like raised edges, steps, integrated drainage channels or lighting. For a typical Surrey garden patio of 25-40m2, budget somewhere between £2,500 and £6,000 depending on material and complexity.

Questions to ask before hiring a patio contractor

Good contractors are happy to answer these. If someone gets uncomfortable or evasive, take note:

• What depth of MOT Type 1 sub-base will you use?
• Will the slabs be laid on a full mortar bed?
• What fall are you building in away from the house?
• Will you handle waste removal and disposal?
• Are you VAT registered and do you carry public liability insurance?
• Can I see examples of your work and speak to previous customers?
• Do you guarantee the work and what does that cover?

Maintaining your patio once it is down

The maintenance required depends heavily on the material you choose.

Porcelain needs almost nothing. Sweep it, jet wash it once a year, and it will look as good in year ten as it did in year one. No sealing required.

Natural stone (sandstone, limestone) should be sealed with a quality impregnating sealer within a few weeks of installation, before it picks up any stains. Reseal every two to three years, or when water stops beading on the surface. An annual jet wash keeps algae and moss under control.

Block paving joints should be re-sanded with kiln-dried sand every few years as the sand erodes and weed seeds find their way in. Sealing block paving after jointing locks the sand in place and makes subsequent cleaning easier.

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